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How to sew a foam cup on a bra ?

How to sew a foam cup on a bra ?

You asked us several times: how to add a foam cup in a bra model !!

Here is a small tutorial that we worked on Cherylada bra, to show you the pattern making logic, so that you can adapt it to your needs on other models 🙂

Are you ready ? Let's go !

bra foam pattern Use part n ° 2 (cup lining) to make the pattern of the foam.

1st step: remove the seam allowances
draw bra yoke Next, transform the dart line into a “vertical yoke”.
To do this, draw a line between the two lower ends of the dart. Divide this line into 2 identical sections.

Then draw a straight line starting from this point, and passing at the level of the inner tip of the dart.
two parts cup You will then obtain a cup in 2 parts:
A front cup and a side cup.

Slightly softens the vertical yoke line with a nice rounding, to avoid the pattern being pointed.
cut the foam cups Place your two pieces on the foam.

** NB **: as you can see in the photo, the foam can break if it is bent, and these folds can create defects on the caps.
So, a little advice: keep it flat between 2 sewing projects 😉
cut both sides of cups Cut the pieces symmetrically to get a right and left cup
test scraps of foam seam Before you start sewing the cups “for real”, we strongly recommend that you try sewing on scraps of foam:

Set your machine to the “Zigzag 3 stitches”, with a width between 7 and 10mm. Position your 2 pieces of foam edge to edge, without superimposing them.
Then, sew all the way with the Zigzag 3 stitches.
The aim of these tests, is to obtain a regular stitch and that does not pull away when the foam is pulled.

In the picture:
- On the right, the stitch is not tight enough and the foam may open when worn with the weight of the breast
- On the left, the stitch is tight enough and the width is sufficient so that the foam does not move when worn.
sewing foam cups Once you have found the correct adjustment, all you have to do is sew the vertical yoke of the two cups, edge to edge.
NB: To avoid stretch the foam, try not to “pull” on it, but rather to “push” it under the presser foot.
bra foam cups sewing Tadamm !! your 2 cups are sewn, and the curve is very nice!

Overlay the foam cup with a stretch fabric (such as jersey) :

prepare fabric cup on top of the foam Prepare your cup that will cover the foam, as detailed in the original tutorial
sew fabric cup on foam All you have to do is position your foam inside the fabric, respecting the original seam values, and sew a basting stitch all around the cup to continue your sewing 🙂

Overlay the foam cup with a stretch lace :

prepare stretch lace on top of the foam And if you want to replace the fabric with a stretch lace, make a finish all around your foam cup, with a zigzag stitch or an overlock to "mash" the edge of the foam.

NB: be careful not to pull the cap under the machine
sew stretch lace on foam cups All you have to do is position your foam inside the fabric, respecting the original seam values, and sew a basting stitch all around the cup to continue your sewing 🙂

We hope you enjoyed this tutorial and that it inspired you for future creations👙

Do not hesitate to take a look at our Sewing tips and our Blog articles if you want to learn new techniques

And of course, if you have any doubts, don't hesitate to contact us :

contact@fitiyoo.com