How to sew a bodysuit from Mojito swimsuit pattern ?
In this pattern hack, you will find a step by step tutorial to learn how to transform Mojito swimsuit version B (1 piece version) into a nice bodysuit !
Are you ready ? Let's go !
1. What you need
|• Stretch fabric, such as : wide width lace, stretch mesh.
• Stretch mesh if you want to add a lining.
• 4,5 to 5m of lingerie elastic, fold-over elastic, or stretch lace.
• Snap fasteners or a 5,7cm Hook&Eye closure.
• Mojito, Version B pattern.
2. How to alter the sewing pattern
Following the instructions of the pattern and tutorial, prepare the pieces n ° 5, 6 and 7 cut to the size that suits you.
If you use a fabric "blocked" in height (non-stretch), do not hesitate to add a few centimeters for the height of the bust. For this:
- Cut out the line indicated on your pattern.
- Move the upper part of your pattern from the desired value; and tapes a strip of paper underneath to add bust height.
- Then, retrace the seam line side so that the curve is pretty.
Now, we will isolate room n°6, the front.
- At the level of the thigh, remove the 1 cm of seam value.
- Measures half the width of the pressure leg (measure A).
- At about 15 cm from the bottom of the gusset, postpone this measurement A from the middle in front. This will allow you to have the right pattern width to sew the paw of press buttons afterwards.
- Retraces the thigh line to match measure A while having a nice curve.
- On your pattern, cut the paper on line A
- You will get 2 separate pieces: a front, and a gusset. This will allow you to easily open your body when you wear it 🙂
- Add a sewing value of 1 cm on the small part where you will come to sew the paw of press buttons.
Then you have the choice:
If you want to use a classic lingerie elastic (sewn on the outside of the fabric, then folded down inside) :
Add the 1cm of seam value that you removed previously on the thigh in front
Or, as if in this tutorial, you chose to replace the lingerie elastics with a lace stripe on the thighs (or a pre-folded elastic):
Do not add the 1 cm of seam value to the front thigh, but remove this value at the levels of the thigh back, neckline and armholes.
3. Cut your bodysuit
|In your main fabric, following the most stretchy direction indicated on the pattern :
cut once at the fold the pieces Back (7) + Bonnet (5) + Front (6) + Gusset (the new piece you have just created)
NB: if your main fabric is very transparent, and you want to double your body for better opacity: cut the pieces you want to double in an extendable tulle
In jersey 100% cotton : cut once at the fold the Gusset
|And these are the parts obtained after cutting and unfolding the fabrics!
NB: For this tutorial, we doubled the cups and the front with pink stretch tulle for more opacity, and left the back transparent 😉
4. Sew your bodysuit
|As detailed in the tutorial, we will start by sewing the darts of the cup.
If like us, you have lined the cups: sew the 4 layers of fabrics and sew the darts (as in the tutorial of the Mojito jersey)
If your darts are not lined, simply sew the 2 layers of fabric and sew it together.
|Turn your cup on the right side.|
|Place the right side of your cup on the right side of the front, by following the notches indicated on the pattern.
Spin the fabrics together.
|Add the front lining on top of it, still following the notches indicated on the pattern.
Cut and sew the underbust elastic, with a stretch seam such as Zigzag or 3-stitches Zigzag.
|Turn the front of your body over to the right side.
Prepare the back and the 2 gussets.
|Lay the back of your cotton gusset flat on the table, right side of the fabric visible.|
|Add the wrong side of the back fabric from above, right side of the fabric visible.|
|Then add the right side of the outer gusset above the right side of the back.
Make a straight stitch seam 5mm from the edge.
|Turn over the 2 gussets, and voila! You sewn your gusset "in sheath"|
|Then place the right side of the front on the right side of the back.
Overlap the side seams and shoulder seams edge to edge to sew them together with a 5mm straight seam.
Finish the seam with an overlock or Zigzag stitch.
|Cut the neckline, armhole and thigh elastics according to the measurements shown in your tutorial.
Distribute the gathers of the elastics evenly over the fabric, and sew them with a stretch stitch such as a single zigzag stitch or a 3-point zigzag
|Finally, we are going to sew the snaps tab at the gussetopening.
On the front:
Sew the snaps with the eyelets on the right side of the fabric .
On the back:
Sew the snaps with the pins on the wrong side of the fabric.
Make a straight stitch seam all over the length of the legs.
|Turn the two pieces over to fold up the tab and make a 2nd seam:
On the front:
Bring the snaps to the wrong side of the fabric (inside the body).
On the back:
Bring the snaps to the wrong side of the fabric (outside of the body).
Sew a straight stitch all around the snaps fasteners.
And there you have it, you have made a super nice bodysuit !!
We hope you enjoyed this tutorial and that it inspired you for future creations👙
And of course, if you have any doubts, don't hesitate to contact us :